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My lord darth thank you. I have been looking for this all day. Now,I,can really clean my dash 8-40.

And in SP black widow livery ❤❤❤

Very nice vintage review. Original box is superb!

Very nice rebuild. They sure are noisy though !

Bravo pour la restauration réussie de la locomotive 1340. Je ne crois pas que Fleischmann n’a mis jamais les autocollants « ROUTE OF THE », « 400 » et « NORTH WESTERN » selon ses catalogues depuis…1957. On ne les touche pas afin de ne pas abîmer les peintures jaune et vert. Cordialement.

IHB was a NYC subsidiary..This is the most powerful 0-8-0 ever built - the class U-4a Numbers 101 to 103 built by the NYC's favorite supplier, Alco. Alco had the American rights to the Gresley Conjugated Valve Gear, used to actuate the third cylinder between the frames. The third cylinder, in addition to adding power, gave more steady torque than a two cylinder machine. Add the tender booster and you had a monster with enough grunt to push endless strings of cars over the Blue Island Hump at a relentless two miles per hour.

Hi, been loving your channel, especially the series about building the Bowser engine kit builds. Hoping you can offer a suggestion or two about how I can restore some tiny rivet details on my boiler. Accidentally filed some off at least in part.. any help is appreciated. Scott

I'd be too tempted to dcc/sound it, with LED's. But I'm crazy like that

If it were mine, I would scan the stickers and turn them into waterslide decals. I doubt I'd ever really buy one of these, though! Cool, nonetheless.

Your model railroad restoration videos are always great to watch!

Wow....i love these time capsules...i love to think what eyes set upon it first time and what hands played and imagined a real train on their floor....yes,it looks like the kid had more interest in accessories or that trains were not in his interest.......great watch

Good to see you're still at it.

Great job on getting that thing just perfect. I love using Brasso for wheels! In finescale gauges (P4) it allows me to be able to polish even stainless steel wheels to a mirror finish (so good that I can easily read sentences in the reflection) whilst not changing the 0.5mm deep flange at all. I use it on a soft cotton wheel for a dremel knockoff (use it only for the high speeds and for that it’s great) and even found that it left a better finish that my leather strop, which is incredible considering that the natural abrasive in it is probably somewhere in the range of 1/4-1/2 micron or 25000-50000 grit!

What, no A-Team van?

They have always been one of my favites to run, i have sseveral i run in my collection i run. keep them running.

Seems to me that "Tyco" was at the low end of quality (?)

It looks great to me. Hope it runs well, or easily fixed to get running

Been on RUclips since late 2015 you are the first that I know of besides me that uses lithium grease on the plastic gears. I've only been using it for more than a decade plus years. Everything else I use label products. In my 61 to years being a model railroader.😅 All mine keep running. Many are over 30 to as much as 55 years old if not 100 year's on. Doing preventative maintenance is the key to keeping them running.

That is super cool

Try K4 decals in Dayton Ohio for your decals!

Nice find and video. Jersey Bill

Thank You Darth! Great little set, excellent find! Happy Railroading

From the fall of 1969 until the fall of 1973, Brass-O was an everyday occurrence as I was a Sgt. in the USMC. Had to shine brass every day. Cheers from eastern TN

What a honey of a set! Thank you for sharing another awesome video Darth. Have a wonderful evening.

That is cursed

Very nice head to head comparison. Thanks

Hello, @1:10:00 i repair roundhouses that have that gear, i discovered that no one super glues the little black turning gear on the metal rod that turns the wheels. thats why ive bought many roundhouses on ebay and every single one di not have the little black gear super glued to the metal rod for the wheels.

Menards Track is super strong

I had one of these, it felt sounded like a blender and operated like it was made of wet sand.

It must have been somewhat of an adventure to construct, and I have to admit this is the first time I'm hearing of the company DJH Model Loco. I only know the full name after looking them up due to seeing this video and to think they been around for 47 years being established in 1977. Your assessment and description of the build were on the money, and I think the skill level warning was most needed. Great video, Jersey Bill

Märklin H0 locomotives will run happily on DC. But good luck changing direction by changing polarity. These motors are 'allstrom motors'. Changing direction invovles switching between the 'anchor' coils. These are wound in opposite directions. The switching relay changes direction by connection the 'opposite' coil. Converting to 2 rail involves isolation one wheelset from the other. Old Märklin locomotives are built like tanks. If you oil and maintain them properly, they can last almost forever. Modern Märklin locos are more fragile, but still really good. Really good job with the conversion!

Darth, I really love how you put this kit together. It looks great and your replacement parts work well. I hope you will show us the results off your lighting of the headlight and the tender light. Maybe even a cab light. Your choice of motor was right on and I thought it ran quite well.

that pacific is beautiful

Good job (especially with the paint)! In terms of British kits, I’m looking forward to your build of the London Road Models one, and I highly recommend the Brassmasters/Finney LNER A1/A3 kit, as it is regarded as the best in detail and construction, and it is also extremely easy to modify it to have working inside motion. I’d recommend using CSB or Varney type suspension, a gearbox that can be routed to go through the firebox to keep it from sight, and to use the high quality and very fine Ultrascale wheels and crankpins to go with the kit. Brassmasters/Finney kits along with Dave Bradwell kits are really seen as the crème de la crème of kits there.

This guy is legendsry with videos for all times...wow

Excellent, thanks for that.

Nice work on the build, what model of coreless motor is that and where can I get it?

Did you film the build process for this one? Would've been neat to see how this shapes up against a brass loco of similar vintage.

Runs nice.

Great work! A question does it come with sprung drivers?

Very cool

Wow I’ve never seen these before! What other American models have they made? Curious about a light mikado :>

This is a model I would love to own given I collect ACL equipment and have a love for the real #1504. I have three BLI P-5-A 4-6-2s #1519, #1523, and #1540. I wish BLI would do #1504.

very interesting review on an obscure product! This is a rather impressive paint job, it turned out great! The DJH pacific certainly did fill in a niche in the market at the time. Although I think Oriental Limited's powerhouse USRA 4-6-2 woulda been a pretty good competitor for the time, also being cheaper than brass, a hybrid of diecast and brass construction, very similar to this model. But having more separate brass detail parts added and RTR. Im not sure how the price would have compared to this, but it was intended to be marketed as "cheaper than brass but with all the brass levels of detail"

I find it very odd that whoever produced the shell gave it the road number of 70 as all the DDA40X's were in the 69XX range.

These old models HAD to be noisy. It was the sound system of the era.

I would never have scrubbed the body shell with a toothbrush. You run the risk of damaging the paint. I normally use a soft 1“ paintbrush for that kind of work. If oily, I would add 1-2 drops of mild dishwashing liquid to a bucket of water. Rinse the model well after washing.

Have you ever installed a DCC decoder in any of your HOB models ?

Remarkable, Mindblowing only because you might have great sight.......Thanks.

I ran into one of your other videos .... Subscribed!!! 👍